I always feel grateful when a perfume shatters my preconceptions. Krigler is a perfume house that has been in existence, off and on, since 1880 or so. Most of its perfumes are “remasterings” of fragrances from its archives, and there are many mentions of glamorous historic clients (Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, F. Scott Fitzgerald) in stories about the brand. There is nothing wrong with any of this of course, but the overuse of some of these tropes by several other brands means that I approached Krigler with some skepticism.
Established Cognac 66 (if I understand their numbering system, this means it was originally created in 1966) is my reigning favorite cognac fragrance. In one word, it is chewy. To me it smells like fruit, warm liqueur, caramel, oak, and toasted almonds (or perhaps amaretto). The drydown is woodier, but not especially dry. It’s very much in the vein of a “gentleman’s library” fragrance, but when something smells this good, I see no need for it to stay in such a small box. If it isn’t too masculine for me, I’d venture to say it isn’t too masculine for very many people. For a very different review of Established Cognac 66, see The Scented Hound.
Ultra Chateau Krigler 212 (created, presumably, in 2012) is supposed to be an aldehydic floral, but I struggle to think of it as such because the prominent rose, lily of the valley, and aldehydic notes are almost transformed by a big gin-and-tonic accord. There is nothing like a bracing slug of quinine to make lily of the valley less insipid, right? The last time I wore Ultra Chateau, I ran across Blacknall Allen’s post on “bitter chypre martinis” and decided it could be an honorary member of that club. For another review of Ultra Chateau Krigler 212, see EauMG.
Lieber Gustav 14 (1914?) was allegedly F. Scott Fitzgerald’s choice, but I remain unbiased, since I didn’t know that until I sat down to write this post. I’m proud to report my taste may be the same as that of my literary hero (if he actually wore this). It’s the standout of a strong bunch. Notes of lavender and black tea hover like a fluffy cloud atop woody notes that sometimes waft something much dirtier.1 I don’t normally care for dirty notes, and lavender is hit or miss for me, but I adore Lieber Gustav. Any thoughts I had of Vero Profumo’s Mito are but distant memories.
Although I went on and on last week about my reasons for not talking much about whether I would buy the perfumes I review, I want to say that I do plan to buy Lieber Gustav. A trip to the Plaza Hotel for perfume and a drink at the Champagne Bar? Yes, please.
1A baby’s stinky diaper smelled from across the room and partially smothered by the powder his mother uses to do whatever powder is supposed to do in children’s diapers. Can you tell I don’t have kids?
Photo courtesy of Krigler. Samples courtesy Krigler, at my request. See my Media & Disclosure policy for more.