The latest of the Armani Prive fragrances, Figuier Eden, faces some stiff competition. Diptyque Philosykos, L’Artisan Premier Figuier, and Sonoma Scent Studios Fig Tree are a few of my favorites. But there are many others on the market, at price points from Kiehl’s to Marc Jacobs and beyond (and probably below).
Luckily, Figuier Eden is lovely. It is more fruit-forward than green (like Philosykos) or woody (like Fig Tree). The main notes to my nose are fig, iris, musk, a very small hit of fig leaf, and a spicy/woodsy accord that might be a wood note combined with amber, or might just be how my nose is perceiving the amber in this fragrance.
During the first hour or so of wear, the fig and iris seem drenched in water. At this stage, Figuier Eden reminds me of Byredo’s La Tulipe, which has a similarly water-fresh feeling without being at all aquatic. And also like La Tulipe, Figuier Eden feels ethereal but not sheer. Rather than a mist of scent-infused water, it is like fig and iris in a bowl of water.
As it dries down, it becomes a smoother melange, in which a few more of the accords come out to play (the iris is more prominent than at the opening, as are the spicy and woodsy notes). There aren’t any creamy or coconut notes in Figuier Eden, but because of the overall smoothness of the blend, it is very soft and actually quite soothing to wear.
That is the extent of the development of the fragrance. It remains like this for about five hours, projecting a surprising amount of sillage for something that feels so “natural.” I feel you can often sense the fixative notes in lighter fragrances, and they give an edge that can be harsh. It’s a nice surprise that this doesn’t happen in Figuier Eden … especially given that those harsh fixative notes are definitely in the formula! After the five hour mark, the fragrance fades rather quickly to an unpleasant veil of musk on my skin.
Above, I said that luckily, Figuier Eden is lovely. Unluckily, it’s also quite expensive. I can’t imagine anyone who owns more than a few bottles of perfuming finding a “need” for this in their collection, given the other very nice fig scents that are on the market. The exception might be if someone truly loves fig scents, and none of the others are perfect. Otherwise, I can only see Figuier Eden being a purchase for someone with just a few bottles of fragrance, who truly loves this one. And it is good enough that I think it could be true love for someone. As for me, I have all the fig perfume I need.
Photo via Armani.