I could never picture Marilyn Monroe in Chanel No. 5, despite her famous response to the question “What do you wear to bed?”
I’ve tried to like No. 5, to find something in its flinty edges I can relate to, but I’ve never succeeded. On me, it is hard and humorless. Although No. 19 is the colder and more austere of the two, I actually find No. 19 more approachable. Its intellectual coldness has the unexpected effect of suggesting that personality and even vulnerability lie beneath. Although I appreciate it, No. 5 smells on me like someone who has died inside, and all that’s left of them is a brittle surface.
So it’s no surprise that I find Eau Premiere a welcome adaptation of the No. 5 aesthetic. The rose in Eau Premiere is prominent on my skin, and overall it feels more floral than No. 5. It feels more rounded, lit from within rather than deflecting light. It also wears easily — feeling feminine but not frivolous. They drydown seems to contain a lot of vanilla. I wore Eau Premiere one day last week, and when I went to yoga in the evening, long after I thought it had worn off, the heat brought out the drydown again; under those conditions, it was almost Guerlain-esque! But that was the heat of the room, not the normal conditions.
Eau Premiere reminds me of the above picture, one of my favorites of Marilyn Monroe, which reveals beauty and playfulness but doesn’t capture her in a pose in which she seems to caricature herself.
Image courtesy http://thebvnyears.tumblr.com/. Tested via samples of No. 5 Eau Premiere which were my own acquisitions.

I think that No. 5 was aspirational for Marilyn. People say that she wasn’t all that fond of her sex-kitten image, and I imagine that a “flinty” fragrance like No. 5 made her feel like the serious woman that she wanted to be. I really liked this review, and I’m glad that you found a version of No. 5 to love. For some reason I don’t like Eau Premiere, but I love the No. 5 EDT. It’s warm and golden, and yes, Guerlain-esque!
You may well be right. I know I would get tired of being saddled with that image (luckily, this is not something I’m in danger of!). I’m glad you liked the review (and glad you told me so). It’s always reassuring to get good feedback.
Funny, I get renewed sillage from EP when I make a cup of tea. The steam from the jug (or, at work, from one of those hot point things) wafts up to my cleavage and neck and lifts EP of my skin again, often hours after I have applied it. I don’t think I get that effect from any other perfume. It’s delicious!
I love your ‘died inside’ metaphor. I don’t get that from No 5, but it reminds my of my reaction to one of the Sisleys, can’t remember which one. A hollowed out chypre perfect for someone desperate to impress. It has put me off the entire line.
Wow! From a cup of tea is pretty amazing. I’m wondering if I actually know which Sisley you are talking about. There was one that struck me as almost, but not quite, alive.
I think it had a gold sun topper, but perhaps they all do? I’m not too familiar with that line.
It might have been Eau de Soir. You are right – that has a gold stopper for sure. But I should not be too dismissive; others may love it.
Absolutely. And it’s not that either are bad, it’s just a matter of personal taste.
Great review, I’m pining after a bottle of Eau Premiere myself! Although I came to love the original No. 5 when I tried the parfum, for some reason I always found the EDP rather flinty as you aptly put it, but the parfum seems to glow on my skin and it’s very beautiful. However, I must admit that Eau Premiere suits me more, it’s truly a gorgeous scent.
Thank you, Stefanie. I’m glad you commented. I find it fascinating how most people strongly prefer either the original or EP. There doesn’t seem to be much crossover, so it’s interesting to hear from someone who likes both.
Like annemarie, I loved your “died inside” description of No 5. It’s like that for me – sort of souless. Unfortunately the one time I tried Eau Premiere I wasn’t wowed but maybe I was expecting too much after so many rave reviews. I will try again after this.
BTW that is one of the nicest pics of Marilyn I have ever seen, so thanks.
Thank you, Tara. It’s always so nice to hear that other people “get” what I get from a perfume.
It is a nice pic, isn’t it? She was so naturally pretty.
I don’t care for regular No 5 because it is too heavy on the aldehydes to my nose – and too sweet, of all things! So Eau Premiere is just the right balance of everything. I am also loving Esprit d’Oscar at the moment which is in similar vein but with more orange. : – )
Interesting! I don’t get a lot of sweet from No. 5. I must attend more carefully next time I smell. L’Esprit d’Oscar was a miss on me, but it’s gotten so much love. I’m looking forward to trying the new one, which has “love” in the name. Forever in Love, maybe? Anyway, it has a pretty bottle.
Not a No.5 fan as well. I tried Eau Premiere once (I think and not sure if on skin) and didn’t like it as well. But after reading your review I will give it another try.
Nope, still not me.
I mean, if this was the last perfume on Earth I wouldn’t refuse wearing it, it’s not a scrubber on me. I just don’t want to wear it if I have all other perfumes available.
Fair enough
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I have 150ml No 5 Eau Premiere, and I think its more wearable version of No.5, and similar with No.5 EDT, longevity is moderate
For me, it definitely is more wearable, as it is for you. But, I suppose not everyone feels this way.