Continuing my iris exploration (I’ve previously written about Chanel’s 28 La Pausa, Le Labo Iris 39, Hermes Iris Ukiyoe, and in an abbreviated way about Chanel No. 19 Poudre), today I am sharing my thoughts on Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist.
Iris Silver Mist seems to seduce everyone who tries it. The reviews I have read are almost unanimously positive. (I hope it will not spoil things for you if I say that my thoughts are pretty positive, too.) I’ve now finished testing everything on my list of iris perfumes, and Iris Silver Mist is certainly the most unique. That it is so universally liked is a testament to the skill of the perfumer, Maurice Roucel, because it is, like most Serge Lutens perfumes, strange.
Sometimes I think we forget that strange is often a good thing. It is arresting, attractive. It changes our perspective, challenges us to see the worth in things that may shock or scare us.
Iris Silver Mist turns my fast-paced city life upside down and shakes it like a snow globe. When the flakes settle, I am in a cool dark wood surrounded by the opening notes of iris, clove, and cedar. Usually these are comforting notes for me, but in Iris Silver Mist they are anything but. They meld together and read to my nose as damp soil, but a damp soil so real that it can’t be real. It has the chemical smell of potting soil. It startles me. The woodland it conjures is uncannily quiet, wary. This is Lutens strangeness at its best.
During the drydown, the clove and the damp soil smell recede, leaving the cedar and allowing the iris to warm up and become more pronounced on my skin. If I continue with my image of the wood, it’s how things feel after the sun breaks through the trees and the dangers and mystery recede, when what is strange becomes accepted. I like it, but I want to remember it the way it was before I thought I understood it. So I reach for the bottle again …
Notes in Iris Silver Mist (according to Fragrantica) are orrisroot, galbanum, cedar, sandalwood, clove, vetiver, musk, Chinese benzoin, incese and white amber.
Image credits: First images from IMDB and Basenotes, second from Branchy.com.
Thanks for your review, I’ve been working on a review as well for about a month but there is always that “I just have to try it one more time in order to get those words right…”. It’s such an amazing scent, I’m in awe of how it can be so earthy and etheral at the same time. When I’m feeling sad it manages to both ground me and comfort me by mirroring the way I feel and at the same time promise that things will be better. I don’t know if that makes any sense but that’s just the way it is
It does make sense. I think you are right, it is a very changeable scent. What you are describing sounds like what I was trying to say about how at first it feels to me like the scent of a place that is dangerous, but then switches and feels peaceful. What amazes me is that I like both aspects of it. I’ll watch our for your review; it will be cool to see what words you find to describe.
“Scent of a place that is dangerous, but then switches and feels peaceful” That is EXACTLY how I feel about it. I’m not ready to publish yet, but any day now
Oh, good! I will be watching for it.
Ok, now I’ve set it free
Thanks for alerting me! I just read and really enjoyed it.
A really beautiful review. I am working myself, slowly I must admit, towards writing about my favourite wearable by men irises. Iris Silver Mist is the Ice Queen that somehow ends up feeling like a warm mitten.
Thank you so much! I like your analogy, and can definitely imagine this smelling great on a guy. If you don’t mind giving me a “sneak preview” what are some of the other irises on your wearable by men list? Off the top of my head, I’d be curious to smell Iris Ganache on a man.
I haven’t tried this one yet but I have a sample on its way. My other favourite irises are Divine, L’ Homme de Coeur, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Iris Bleu Gris and for more casual wear the “shower in a bottle” Prada, Infusion d’ Homme. I also like very much Christian Dior Cologne Blanche and Van Cleef & Arpels Iris de Nuit. I hate Infuson d’ Homme edt, the edp is a little better. A very special place in my iris drawer is reserved for Parfum d’ Empire Cuir Ottoman, a stunning leather – iris composition, Parfum d’ Empire Equistrius, a silky suede iris and Santa Maria Novella Citta di Kyoto, a driest, cold, suave iris – lotus fragrance. Stay tuned…
Thanks for the preview! I definitely will stay tuned. So many of these I have not experienced, and I’ve never even seen SMN Citta di Kyoto! My local doesn’t carry the full line. The two Parfum d’Empires I have been chomping at the bit (pun intended) over and am awaiting samples.
I also wear Chanel No19 edt!
One of my faves, for sure.
Correction: the VC&A is Bois d’ Iris. Iris de Nuit is the Heeley iris which is one of the best too.
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Loved the review. I was curious to try it before but with the words you found and those nice visuals you’ve just singlehandedly moved it almost to the top of my list
Thank you so much! I wish I had some to send you, but my sample is already almost gone. I don’t think it will even spray anymore.
On happier news, welcome back!
It’s OK, I’ll find a sample eventually (or it’ll find me). The important part is to have it on a list. Otherwise I get lost in places that offer a lot of niche choices.
Me too. Maybe the SAs think I’m crazy, but I have got to have the list!
I totally used a very similar picture of Liv-as-Arwen for a 28 La Pausa review! Something about her just screams iris, I suppose. Thank you for the review!
I think so. Maybe it’s the silver/purple hood thing. I just went back and read your 28 La Pausa review, and it’s really good. And yes, I wonder how Liv is so pretty with her Dad’s DNA.
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